Aerial Roots

In 2009 ( a lot happened back then…) I bought one of these S shaped Figs from a very reputable bonsai vendor. (As he now declares that these S-shaped Chinese imports are not bonsai – I will refrain from naming him).  In any case, I always wanted one and I have four now. And quite happy with my bonsai.

This one had some aerial roots already and I was advised by all to cut them off.

DSC04964

It became my mission to have a proper banyan     fig (Yes – I know this is not a Banyan Fig (Ficus benghalensis). Banyan actually means that the fig started its life as an epiphyte and that its seed germinated in a crack of another tree. The true Banyan fig is native to India. They are frequently planted near homes, temples, villages, and roadsides and is often a meeting place for the community. People would gather in its shade to relax, discuss issues, and make decisions. The name, banyan, is derived from merchants called Banias, who rested under the trees to discuss their strategies. It is therefore for this reason that I wanted to develop aerial roots.

I was advised to water from above – which i religiously did.  Soon, little roots started forming from the grafted branches.  I unfortunately lost the branch on the right a while ago.  I decided not to regraft or remove it, but I let branches from the top branch grow down. There is still a long way to go, but basically, this is where this tree is at today.

IMG_4950

 

Earlier this season, I decided to use straws to guide the roots down to try and prevent root splitting near the soil as the the second from the left, root. When I removed the straw, I found lots of little roots and root hairs growing.

 

IMG_4954 IMG_4960

It will be very interesting to see what develops from here.

 

 

 

 

IMG_4959

On the righthand side where I lost the branch and have been trying to “cheat” by getting other branches to cover up, you will see some green cable ties.  It worked for while, but then I bumped the branch and it broke. No amount of wood glue or anything has worked. Then I had another brainwave. What if I let one of these roots grow very long (using a straw, I aimed to off the side and out the pot), I eventually managed to get a root long enough to ‘twine’ around the dead, broken branch. I really hope it works this time, as the tree (and I) need this branch. As you can see, the root is still in the straw and should soon reach the soil in the bonsai pot.

IMG_4953IMG_4952

Trunksplitting, scoring and scratching to thicken bonsai cuttings

In 2009 I started with a baobab experiment.  All my baobabs I have started from seed and I did not want to wait so long to have thick trunks. (I was no youngster in 2009 either).  I had an idea to trunk split (much like figs) some of them.  At that stage I was communicating with Harry Harrington (UK) and he suggested ‘scoring’ the bark.  In fact, he had to explain the concept to me as I had never heard of it.  It is slicing through the bark length ways, not too deep in, just cutting through the cambium.  This was difficult with baobabs as baobabs do not have ‘bark’ as such.  I selected 5 similar sized baobabs and started my experiment.

At this stage, I must warn all reading this post.  WHAT FOLLOWS WORKED FOR ME AND I AM NOT ADVOCATING IT FOR ALL.  I LIVE IN A (DRY AT PRESENT)  TROPICAL AREA. Know your area before you do exactly what I did. I do not take my baobabs out of the soil in winter and they get watered 365 days of the year. ALL OF THEM.

In 2009 I selected 5 similar sized baobabs (100mm in circumference).  .

Tree no 1

baobab3 was trunk split right through and planted in the soak pit.

Tree no 2

DSC04689 No 2 was planted directly in the garden – no special soil.

Tree no 3

DSC04681No 3 was scored lightly along all 4 sides (and in the end showed the least thickening)

Tree no 4

DSC04685No 4 was deeply scored and showed the 2nd most thickening.

Tree no 5

DSC04678 and no 5 was left in the bag as is and showed the least thickening and only got 110mm in 3 years.  (Effectively was the control)

“Trees no 2, 3 and 4 went from 100mm to between 350mm and 380mm in three years. They were all used in a planting where I hope they will fuse into one BIG baobab (like the Modjadji baobab in Limpopo). There are 7 trees planted tightly together to eventually form one.

aDSC08770

No 1 was left in the soak pit, watered daily for 365 days of the year, but unfortunately in Dec 2012, it got blown over during a storm, having reached 520mm in circumference and a height of 4 meters. You can still see the scar in the front of the 3rd picture.

IMG_1357IMG_1359IMG_1360IMG_1361

Four years later in Dec 2013, the main tree, (no 1) got blown over and cut into 7 pieces. Unfortunately only 2 took.

This is the original base:

aDSC08756.  I did not seal it properly and ants started eating it from the inside.  I bravely decided to leave it to see what would happen.  I have to admit, I am very happy with the outcome.  Although this has many years left in training, I have potted it and called it “Gambaru” (“Doing one’s best and hanging on to the end”).  I successfully rooted the piece immediately on top of the base.  And this is it, now in 2015

.IMG_4941

This is a very longwinded post on how to score trees, I know.  But I hope this is sufficient background for leading up to the answer to “How/why ‘score’ cuttings?”

I have a beautiful Portucularia afra (Spekboom) and I cannot through the trimmings away, so I always stick in soil in the pots next to my tree. It does take long to thicken and does not have much taper.  Earlier this year, I started with another experiment.  I decided to score some cuttings to see what happens, I have enough, you see.  if I lost one or two it would not harm.  Unfortunately, I did not document anything, until this post in Bonsai Odyssey.

I used exceptionally small cuttings, I know, but I hope you see what can happen in a few weeks.  ( I apologise for the quality of the photos, I am 2 weeks post-op and in a neck brace with limited movement (and field of vision).

IMG_4923 IMG_4924 IMG_4925

I am sure this specimen is quite hardy, but make sure your tools are clean and sterile.  Remove the bottom leaves (did you know they are edible?  (I feed them to my koi and goldfish, but humans can eat it too).  Then, gently cut along the stem. (These were done (27/06/2015).

The following cuttings were done in May 2015, so effectively they are just over a month old (I would say 6 weeks).  You can clearly see how the cut is healing taking on the flaky characteristics of this species.

DSC_0031 DSC_0028

The following pictures are little mames I did in about March this year, except for one which is a year old.

IMG_4944IMG_4943

I wired this tree and left the wires on too long (on purpose). I think I will do it again.  It will lead to interesting scarring. Of note is the fact that the left side branch is thicker than the main branch – due to the wire bite. This time I will wire the main branch too.

IMG_4942

This blog was started just before my op and just before I could really get into it.  This is actually my very first post.  Yesterday, I was feeling deeply depressed (side effects of being inactive for 2 weeks now).  Just talking about bonsai has lifted my spirits.  Thanks to the Bonsai Oddessey Facebook page.

Hello world!

Bonsai is very therapeutic. But then we all knew that.  In 2014, I completed by Doctorate in Philosophy in the spiritual and healing facets of practicing bonsai.

I have had bonsais practically all my life.  It started from growing trees in pots, to joining clubs, to leaving clubs, to becoming an all consuming passion, to completing my doctorate in it.

No, I am NOT a bonsai artist. Most of my bonsais are still just trees in pots. I practice the art for my own pleasure, (but you are welcome to visit my garden). I do not prescribe to any school of thought, nor do I follow rules. I listen to the tree and where it wants to lead me.

I hope you enjoy this journey with me.